Table of Contents

• Service Calls
• The Plumbing Code
• Plumbing License
• Permits
• Inspections
• Toilets
• Garbage Disposal
• Low Water Pressure
• Bathroom Sink & Tub Drain Slow
• Water Heaters
• Winter Water Tips
• Preventing Frozen Pipes
• Thawing Frozen Pipes
• Draining Plumbing in a Vacant House
• Noisy Pipes
• Leaks
• Where and How to Shut Off Water
• Understanding Backflow Prevention Programs
• Water Saving Tips
• Water in My Crawlspace
   

• Make a list of plumbing problems.
• Try to reproduce the problem - it's always frustrating if the problem doesn't happen when the plumber arrives.
• Locate any of the original paperwork to help identify the model and part numbers.
• Group plumbing problems together and make one call.

• Tell them, to the best of your knowledge, exactly what's wrong when you talk to him on the telephone.
• If the toilet is leaking, tell him it's the toilet. If it's the bathroom sink, don't merely say that "there's a leak in the bathroom" and expect him to tell you what to do until he gets there.
• There are thousands of brands and tens of thousands of different parts, the plumber can't be expected to carry them all. So, provide as much information as you can (i.e., size, part, model numbers and previous history etc.).

• Remove or restrain large pets from area.
• Empty cabinets and sinks where work is to be performed.
• Clear a path to water heater or crawl space entrance.

• Explain what you see as the problem and everything that has been done previously. This will speed the work and lower your plumbing bill.

Before the Plumber Leaves:

• Inspect the work to ensure what you expected was done.
• Ask questions about this or future projects.

The plumbing in any private or public building is connected to the community water and sewage disposal system.  It is critical to public health that the potable water system is not contaminated and that sewage is conveyed away in a safe manner.   The plumbing code is an officially adopted collection of standards, guides and methods that are placed into Oregon law and regulate practices in the plumbing industry. It specifies how plumbing systems and fixtures are to be designed, installed and maintained and provides guidelines for enforcement and consumer recourse.  The code is updated about every three years.

A licensing law establishes how plumbers are to be trained and tested in order to become licensed. Licensing of plumbers helps ensure that these individuals are knowledgeable and skilled and will build, install and maintain plumbing in a manner that complies with the code.

Oregon law requires anyone who works for compensation in any construction activity involving improvements to real property to be licensed with the Oregon Construction Contractors Board. This includes roofing, siding, painting, carpentry, concrete, on-site appliance repair, heating and air conditioning, home inspections, tree service, plumbing, electrical, floor covering, manufactured dwelling installation, land development, and most other construction and repair services.   To confirm that your contractor is licensed you may check at the Construction Contractors Board website.

A homeowner may perform plumbing on their own home with out a license, otherwise a licensed journeyman plumber must perform the plumbing work.  A journeyman plumber has completed an approved apprenticeship training program or equivalent training/experience and has passed the State Plumbing Board plumbing license examination.  Journeyman plumbers are required to carry and present (if requested) their plumbing license.  You may search to verify at the Oregon Building Codes Division website.

A plumbing permit is required to do the following:

• replace water heaters, alter piping inside a wall or ceiling, or beneath a floor, and for plumbing in all new installations.
• emergency repair, alteration, or replacement of freeze-damaged or leaking concealed piping, if new piping exceeds 3 feet.
• remodel or add on to your one- or two-family dwelling when existing plumbing is to be relocated. This includes installation of building sewers, water service, and exterior rain drains.

Homeowners or contractors must apply for a permit at the building department that has jurisdiction over the city or county in which the construction work will be performed. To find a jurisdiction, call the nearest city hall, give the address of the construction project or installation, and ask what building jurisdiction to contact for a permit. Be sure to mention your address and the type of work you are planning.

Inspections 

All permitted jobs must be inspected by an Oregon Licensed Inspector, this will be arraigned by your contractor.  The exception is minor label permits of which only ten percent are inspected and will be arraigned with the homeowner by the inspecting jurisdiction.

Q: What do I do about an overflowing toilet?

A: First, turn off the water at the valve under the toilet. If it's a case of too much paper or other matter causing a stoppage, a plunger should work. If the toilet is not operating because the sewer is stopped up, a homeowner can help prevent overflowing by opening their sewer clean-out (located outside the building) to relieve the pressure on the system. Then call your plumber or a drain-cleaning company.

Your toilet is not a garbage disposal. Just because a product is called disposable doesn't mean it should be flushed down the toilet. Keep a waste paper basket in the bathroom for such things as gum, bandages and paper towels. Baby diapers and all sanitary products don't belong in a toilet. 

A clogged toilet is a tricky problem, so be careful with whatever method you use for cleaning the drain. Most water closets are made of vitreous china which might crack if exposed to extremely hot water,  pressure or force.

A plunger will normally handle simple toilet clogs.   Problems that  can arise are compacting the clog instead of dislodging it or creating enough pressure to blow out the wax seal.  Plumbers generally use an auger with an adjustable, crank-type handle. Use the auger carefully. Careless handling may crack the toilet.
 

If the rubber-cupped plunger or the auger does not clear the toilet, call your plumber.

Stains or moisture at the base of the closet bowl may indicate that the seal between the toilet and the drain has failed and should be reset immediately to prevent damage to your home and possible health hazards.



 

When water continues to run after the toilet has been flushed, it is usually one of two things - either the fill valve or the flapper.  Same thing, if water continues to seep into the bowl or if there is a low humming noise.

A small amount of food coloring added to the tank water will help you determine whether the flapper is leaking. Add a few drops to the water in the tank after it is filled. Watch for the coloring to seep into the toilet bowl, and if it does, the flapper may be responsible. If the flapper is misshapen (scalloped),   covered with a slimy coating or when you touch it, rubber comes off on your finger - replace the flapper.

An overflow tube or pipe is provided in the toilet tank to take care of the water in case it rises above the correct level - which should be at about 3/4 of an inch below the top of the overflow pipe.  If the water rises to the top of the overflow pipe an adjustment or new fill-valve assembly is necessary. Consult your plumber if in doubt.

Garbage Disposals 

Do's

• Do run a strong flow of water while grinding.
• Do run water for at least 30 seconds after out of the disposal.
• Do run the disposal each time waste is put in.
• Do use small batches, disposing of large amounts, especially starchy foods (i.e. potato peels, rice, pasta, etc.).
• Do cut fibrous foods into small pieces before grinding (i.e. cabbage, asparagus, banana peels, etc.).
• Do run disposal with ice and/or citrus peel to clean and deodorize as needed.

Don'ts

• Do not grind bones, shells, or very fibrous things (i.e. artichokes, corn cobs or corn husks)
• Do not stuff with large amounts of food at one time.

If the garbage disposal doesn't work?

1. If the disposal makes no noise when you turn it on, this is frequently an indication that the disposal was jammed and the current overload was tripped.
   1. Locate and press the reset button (located on the bottom of most units), then check for a jam before turning on.
   2. If still no noise, check breaker in electrical panel, reset, then check for a jam before turning on.
2. If it makes a buzzing noise but doesn't operate, turn the unit off.
   1. Look inside and see if there is a spoon or other object inside and needs to be dislodged.
   2. Before putting your hand or tools into the disposal, unplug it or turn off the breaker in the electrical panel.
   3. If this doesn't work, call a plumber.

Low Water Pressure 

What if there is no pressure at my faucet?

Frequently what is perceived as a lack of pressure is really a reduction in volume.  This is an important distinction.  Pressure will be consistent through out your plumbing system and is rarely low  through out the house.  This can be easily tested with an inexpensive gauge form your hardware store, sold usually near sprinkler system parts.  Testing is done by screwing the gauge onto a hose bib (normal pressure will be between 55 and 75 psi.).

On the other hand low volume can be specific to an individual plumbing fixture or through out the entire plumbing system. 

If both hot and cold water are affected in only some of the faucets, probably the aerator is congested with rust and corrosion. The aerator is located on the end of the faucet spout to introduce air into the water as it come out of the faucet. On newer faucets, it also restricts the water flow.

You should be able to remove the aerator by hand. Disassemble all the parts, being especially careful to lay the parts out in the order they are removed. Clean the rust or corrosion from each part and reassemble in exact order. If that doesn't work, the problem may be in the faucet or the plumbing system and you should call your plumber.

The most common reason for bathroom sinks and tubs to drain slow is hair.   First, remove the pop-up or stopper and try to clean out as much hair as possible, reassemble and test.  Plungers are usually not very effective on bathroom sinks and tubs, as the hair clings and is not a solid mass easily pushed out of the way.  For a plunger to work you will have to cover the overflow tightly of the pressure will just come out there.  A small hand auger may be required.  A drain cleaning chemical product such as SEPTICLEAR INC.™  HAIR AWAY may work - but be sure to read the directions prior to use.  Some products are not to be used if the drain is completely blocked.  If you still haven't been able to clear the drain, you need to call your plumber.

• For safety reasons, keep the temperature dial setting at or below the suggested Factory Setting listed on the water heater or in the manual. Above that setting will greatly increase the potential for scalding.  Any questions please call the manufacturer or your plumber.

All water heaters are required by law to be equipped with a temperature and pressure relief valve (t & p valve) as a safety feature to prevent damage from excessive pressure (>150 psi) or temperature (>210˚F).  If the t & p valve is discharging water you should call your plumber immediately. 

Flushing your water heater is something that should be done on a regular basis. The procedure is as follows:

• Hook a garden hose up to the bottom drain valve. Place the garden hose in a position to allow full discharge of the water through the hose ( into a floor drain, bath tub or street) *NOTE: THIS WATER WILL BE HOT AND IS A SCALD HAZARD!  THE TEMPERATURE MAY KILL PLANTS.
• Open the drain valve wide open. DO NOT CLOSE OFF THE INCOMING COLD WATER SUPPLY TO THE HEATER.
• Run the water out of the hose until the water runs clear (usually just a few seconds).
• Once the water is clear, shut off the bottom drain valve and remove the garden hose.

How long should my water heater last?

The answer is not simple.  While the average life expectancy of a water heater in our area is about 12 years (Yes, there are examples of water heaters lasting 20 and 30 years, but these are incredibly rare cases.), many things can affect the life of a water heater.

• Water softeners are utilized to reduce hardness in water, they can shorten the life a water heater by consuming the anode rod rapidly (generally within one year). Once the anode rod is consumed there is no protection in the water heater to prevent the water from dissolving the seam joints. When a water softener is installed the water softener needs to be bypassed once a year to allow some lime to buildup to protect the heater and slow down the anode rod consumption
• Water hammer can create short bursts of extremely high pressure, which can cause seams in the tank to crack and fail.
• Thermal expansion can create very high pressures and usually manifest itself by premature failure of the water tank or leaking t & p relief valves.  Thermal expansion is generally only a problem on a closed plumbing system.
  • A closed plumbing system is  created when a device is placed in the piping that only allows the water to move in one direction. This is usually a backflow device or a "non-bypassing" pressure reducing valve (PRV).  Water expands as it is heated creating higher pressure and if there is no release of this pressure it can cause damage to the water heater and other fixtures (think washing machine hoses bursting while away on vacation).
• Under sizing of a water heater causes it to be "on" more frequently than a correctly sized water heater.  This can cause parts to fail much sooner than expected.
• Mineral deposits and buildup are corrosive and act as an insulator between the heats source (burner or elements) and the water causing the water heater to work harder to maintain the temperature.
• Missing anode rod due to water quality or removal of anode rod (See water softeners, above).

If you have a question or concern about any of these issues, call your plumber.

Winter Water Tips 

There are several measures that can be taken to prevent winter water disasters.

• Locate and mark the main water cutoff valve for your home. This cutoff valve is usually found near where the water line comes into your house.
  Damage from running water can be minimized if you can turn off this valve quickly.
• Make sure the water line to outside hose bibs are turned off and the line is drained.
• Consider wrapping or insulating your water pipes, especially those pipes near outside walls, under the house, or in the attic. Insulation supplies are available at your local home improvement/hardware store.
• Find a contactor to install heat tape on particularly vulnerable pipes.
   
• Eliminate drafts. Check around the home for areas where water supply lines are located in unheated areas and take measures to prevent the flow of cold air in these areas. Look in the basement, crawl space, attic, garage, and under kitchen and bathroom cabinets. Both hot and cold water pipes in these areas should be insulated. A hot water supply line can freeze just as a cold water supply line can freeze if water is not running through the pipe, and the water temperature becomes cold.
   
• If your water pipes do freeze, never try to thaw a pipe with an open flame or torch. You can use a hair dryer or portable heater, but always be careful of the potential for electric shock in and around standing water.
   
• If you will be away from your home, keep the thermostat at a reasonable temperature and open doors to make sure all areas with water pipes are kept above freezing.

What if I lose the heat source in my home?

If you are staying in your home, or will be monitoring your home frequently, allow a faucet to drip cold water slowly.  At a minimum, the dripping faucet should be the one that is the greatest distance from your main water cutoff valve.  Also, consider allowing a slow drip in areas that are least protected from the cold (basements, crawl spaces, attics, the garage).  But, remember even moving water will freeze at 20˚F.

If your water pipes do freeze, never try to thaw a pipe with an open flame or torch.  You can use a hair dryer or portable heater, but always be careful of the potential for electric shock in and around standing water.

Before Cold Weather, Prepare

• Make sure that all the garden hoses outside your home are disconnected. Failing to do so can cause not only the hose but also the hose bib to which it is connected, to freeze and be damaged.  This is especially important with "frost free" hose bibs. The hose must be disconnected to make the faucet freeze-proof. Failure to do so will trap water in the faucet body, which then can freeze. If the hose is disconnected, the anti-freeze faucet can properly drain, and this will prevent freezing.
• Water pipes which are exposed to freezing temperatures or drafts should be covered with insulation. Whenever possible it is best to drain systems not being used in severely cold weather. Small water pipes will freeze quicker than will waste or sewer pipes.
• Prevent drafts of frigid winter air. Secure all crawl space openings or windows and insulate and caulk any cracks in the structure's foundation.
• Consider installing specific products made to insulate water pipes like a "pipe sleeve" or installing UL-listed "heat tape," "heat cable" or similar materials on exposed water pipes. Many products are available at your local building supplies retailer. Pipes should be carefully wrapped, with ends butted tightly and joints wrapped with tape. Follow manufacturer's recommendations for installing and using these products.

During Cold Weather, Take Preventive Action

• Keep garage doors closed if there are water supply lines in the garage.
• Open kitchen and bathroom cabinet doors to allow warmer air to circulate around the plumbing. Be sure to move any harmful cleaners and household chemicals up out of the reach of children.
• When the weather is very cold outside, let the cold water drip from the faucet served by exposed pipes. Running water through the pipe—even at a trickle—helps prevent pipes from freezing because the temperature of the water running through it is above freezing.
• Keep the thermostat set to the same temperature both during the day and at night. By temporarily suspending the use of lower nighttime temperatures, you may incur a higher heating bill, but you can prevent a much more costly repair job if pipes freeze and burst.
• If you will be going away during cold weather, leave the heat on in your home, set to a temperature no lower than 55ºF.

If you turn on a faucet and only a trickle comes out, suspect a frozen pipe. Locate the suspected frozen area of the water pipe. Likely places include pipes running against exterior walls or where your water service enters your home through the foundation.

• Keep the faucet open. As you treat the frozen pipe and the frozen area begins to melt, water will begin to flow through the frozen area. Running water through the pipe will help melt more ice in the pipe.
• Apply heat to the section of pipe using an electric heating pad wrapped around the pipe, an electric hair dryer, a portable space heater (kept away from flammable materials) or wrapping pipes with towels soaked in hot water. Do not use a blowtorch, kerosene or propane heater, charcoal stove or other open flame device. A blowtorch can make water in a frozen pipe boil and cause the pipe to explode. All open flames in homes present a serious fire danger, as well as a severe risk of exposure to lethal carbon monoxide.
• Apply heat until full water pressure is restored. If you are unable to locate the frozen area, if the frozen area is not accessible or if you can not thaw the pipe, call a licensed plumber.
• Check all other faucets in your home to find out if you have additional frozen pipes. If one pipe freezes, others may freeze, too.

If your house is to be vacated during cold weather and the heating system turned off, follow this procedure:

Shut off the water supply at the main shut-off valve at the street. Then beginning with those on the top floor, open all faucets and leave them open. If available, open the cap on the main shut off valve drain the remaining water. Remember to reinstall this cap when complete.  Shut off and drain all hot water tanks.  Make sure all horizontal pipes drain properly. Air pressure will get rid of trapped water in these pipes, but occasionally the piping may have to be disconnected and drained. To be safe have your plumber check your entire plumbing system.

Remove all water in the p-traps under sinks, toilets, bathtubs, and laundry, use a wet vacuum or other method to siphon the water out. Sponge all the water out of the toilet tank and bowl.

Fill all traps with a DEQ approved non-freezing solution such as mineral oil, windshield washing fluid or RV type anti-freeze.

If your house is heated by hot water or steam, drain the heating pipes and boiler before leaving, following the equipment manufacturers recommendations.

Note: When you return home, refill all the systems BEFORE lighting the hot water heater or boilers.

The general types of noises from pipes found in the home are banging, water hammer, squeaking, chattering and whistling.   If there is the sudden appearance of one of these sounds, this indicates that something has changed or failed.  Frequently this is the pressure in your house.  While this alone will not cause noise, a change in pressure from 60 to 120 psi will frequently make the noise loud enough to be audible and annoying.  An immediate suspect should be your pressure reducing valve (PRV).

Banging usually occurs when you turn on your water.  This is an indication that your pipes are not sufficiently strapped.

Water hammer is the thump that occurs when you turn off the water at a faucet or an appliance quickly.  It is a pressure shock wave caused by a sudden  in the plumbing system.  Pumps, valves, faucets, toilets and fast-acting solenoid valves are examples of devices that can induce water hammer.  This shock wave can exert tremendous instantaneous pressures, sometimes reaching 150 to over 1000 psi.  The noise is only an audible symptom of what is going on in the piping. The piping is being subjected to the wear and tear of a multitude of shock waves. The result will be leaks in piping, tanks or fixtures unless the condition is corrected.

Sometimes water hammer is due not to the plumbing in the house in which it is heard but to a condition outside of the house (such as a sprinkler system), or in a neighboring house. In such cases, skillful detective work by an experienced plumber is necessary to ferret out the source of the trouble and to plan corrective methods.  Water hammer should not be permitted to go on indefinitely.   It can usually be eliminated by the installation of  special devices known as shock arrestors on the main line near the meter or as close as possible to the cause of the noise. 

Squeaking is caused by the hot water pipes.  As hot water moves through the pipes the pipes heat and expand, then when the hot water stops, the pipes cool and contract.  This expansion and contractions causes movement against the pipe strapping, which can cause squeaking.  Sometimes it can actually sound like dripping water.

Chattering in the piping may be caused by loose pipes, by pipes rubbing against a metal projection, by worn faucet washers or looseness of other inside parts.

Whistling is caused by the speed of water flowing through piping which is usually too small. A pressure reducing valve will help as will a general straightening out of the plumbing system. Whistling is most common at bends and tees in the pipe.

Leaks 

If you find a leak in your plumbing system shut off the water supply and call your plumber at once. Water supply systems are under high pressure.  Leaks must have immediate attention. They can progress into a serious catastrophic failure, property damage and a safety hazard - all very quickly.

Whole-house shutoff.  Knowing where and how to shut off water for the entire house is prudent for every member of the household to know.  The most important valve in the house is the main shut-off valve for the entire plumbing system. This valve, generally located near the foundation (inside or outside), in the basement or in the garage.  Standard practice has changed over the years and it depends on the layout of the house.  In some cases just locating this valve can be a chore.  If you can not find the valve or if it is inoperable your should have your plumber install one or replace the valve.

For water service leaks (the piping between your house and the water meter), the only way to shut this off is at the valve on the street side of the water meter.  This require a water meter key, which can be picked up at the hardware store.

The Federal Clean Water Act and Oregon Administrative Rules Chapter 333-61-070 require that Tualatin Valley Water District (and all water purveyors) protect our potable water supplies from contamination by an outside source, through implementation of a Backflow Prevention Program. These requirements try to minimizes the possibility for the water using public to inadvertently contaminate or pollute the public water supply.

This program requires the installation of a backflow prevention device in the plumbing system where the possibility of a cross connections may take place. A cross connection. is an arrangement of piping or faucets which might allow the potable water supply to come into contact with a contaminant. An example of a potential cross connection is a lawn irrigation systems, where fertilizers, chemicals or other contaminants can come into contact with the potable water supply through the irrigation heads.

There Are Four Basic Types Of Backflow Prevention Assemblies:

	Atmospheric Vacuum Breaker (AVB) One AVB required for each irrigation zone; no control valves (on/off) valves allowed downstream of (after) an AVB Each AVB must be installed a minimum of six inches (6") above the highest point of water in the zone it serves No chemicals or fertilizers may be introduced into an irrigation system equipped with AVBs No pumps or back pressure on downstream side of (after) an AVB
	Double Check Valve Assembly (DCVA) The most common type of backflow device Only one DCVA required to serve the whole system; control valves can be located downstream of the DCVA DCVA must be tested by a state-certified backflow assembly tester when installed, annually or when moved or repaired No chemicals or fertilizers may be introduced into an irrigation system containing DCVAs
	Pressure Vacuum Breaker Assembly (PVB) Only one PVB required to serve the whole system; control valves can be located downstream of (after) the PVB PVBs must be installed a minimum of one foot (12") above the highest point of water they serve PVBs must be tested by a state-certified backflow assembly tester when installed, annually or when moved or repaired No chemicals or fertilizers may be introduced into an irrigation system containing DCVAs No pumps or back pressure on downstream side of (after) a PBV
	Reduced Pressure Backflow Assembly (RPBA) Only one RPBA required to serve the whole system; control valves can be located downstream of (after) the RPBA RPBAs must be installed a minimum of one foot (12") above ground level RPBAs must be tested by a state-certified backflow assembly tester when installed, annually or when moved or repaired In an RPBA equipped system, fertilizer and other agricultural chemicals may be introduced downstream of (after) the RPBA

Testing of Backflow Prevention Devices

In all cases, irrigation systems require an approved backflow prevention device between the potable water supply and the irrigation system. These devices are not only required by law, but also due to the requirements of the backflow prevention program the devices are required to be tested annually by a certified backflow prevention tester. The annual test is to ensure that the device is working properly protecting the water supply. Failure to comply can result in fines and shut off of service.

Water Saving Tips  

Water Conservation not only will help save water, it will also save you money.

Did you know you can save....

3 gallons
By turning the water off each time you brush your teeth.

7 gallons a day
By fixing a leaky faucet right away

75-200 gallons per week
By running only full loads in the washing machine and dishwasher

20-25 gallons By taking a shower instead of a bath

200-300 gallons per month
By keeping a bottle of water in the refrigerator for drinking in order to not have to run the tap until the water gets cold enough to drink

1,000 gallons a month
By installing a flow restrictor in a shower (will cut water use by as much as two-thirds

1,500-2,000 gallons a day
By fixing a pin hole leaks (with 60 lbs. of pressure) right away

BATHROOM:

• Check faucets and pipes for leaks.
• Turn off the water while brushing your teeth or shaving, rather than running a steady stream.
• Limit showers to five minutes.
• Replace standard shower heads with low-volume heads or flow restrictors.
• Check your toilet periodically for leaks. Place a few drops of food coloring in the tank. After a few minutes, if you see color in the bowl, you have a leak, perhaps caused by a faulty flapper.
• Listen for gurgling sounds coming from your toilet. These noises indicate the flush valve needs to be adjusted to stop wasting water.
• In older toilets, fill a plastic, one quart bottle with water and place it in the toilet tank. To anchor the bottle, partially fill it with sand or any heavy substance. This does not affect the efficiency of most toilets and can save 5 or more gallons per day per a family of four. Do not use bricks to displace water in your toilet tank they will break down, over time, and can cause problems.
• Avoid using your toilet for a wastebasket or ashtray. Extra flushes waste water and money.

KITCHEN & LAUNDRY:

• Automatic dishwashers and washers are more efficient if run only when they are full.
• When washing dishes by hand, don't let the tap run freely to rinse. Fill the second side of the sink with rinse water.
• Fill a pitcher with drinking water and store it in the refrigerator.

OUTSIDE:

• When washing the car, use soap and water from a bucket. Use a hose with a shut-off nozzle for the final rinse.
• Use a broom when cleaning your driveway.
• Adjust sprinklers so only the lawn is watered and not the house, sidewalk, or street. Do not water on rainy or windy days. Check and maintain your sprinkler system regularly.
• Water your lawn every third day. Always water during the cool time of the day to minimize evaporation. Early morning is best, and the peak water consumption hours (4 p.m. - 9 p.m.) should be avoided.
• Adjust your irrigation schedule to accommodate changes in seasonal water demand. Install an automatic timer.
• For landscaping, use native or other low water use plants.
• Using a layer of mulch around plants reduces evaporation and promotes plant growth. Water retaining basins also allow water to be concentrated around the plants.

Water in My Crawlspace 

Introduction

Some houses in the Portland area have problems with standing water or moisture in the crawlspace, providing a perfect environment for mold growth and other problems. For mold to grow, three elements must be present—moisture, food, and warm temperatures. A crawlspace generally has all three of these elements in abundance. Of these, moisture is the dominant factor. We cannot control the food source (our home), and we cannot control the temperature, since crawlspaces are below grade and generally are around 60 degrees. We can, however, control the amount of moisture in our crawlspace which is the key to preventing or minimizing mold growth. Causes of standing water or moisture in crawlspaces may include plumbing leaks, groundwater, high water tables, porous soil near the foundation, condensation, poor ventilation, lack of rain gutters, and poor drainage or grading.

Moisture Problems

Standing water or moisture in crawlspaces can contribute to more problems than just mold. It can also result in structural damage from unstable wet soil, dry rot, potential indoor air quality problems, as well as the presence of termites and other unwanted pests attracted to moisture. Moisture in the crawlspace eventually will raise moisture levels throughout the house and can extend to attics and roof spaces. The extent of the problem depends on how much moisture is present and how often it exists.

Methods for Controlling Problem in Existing Homes

• Regularly inspect your crawlspace for signs of moisture. Promptly fix any leaks and try to control any other sources of moisture.
• Ensure that the entire crawlspace is covered with a plastic sheeting (6-mil black poly or equivalent).
• Be careful when watering lawns and landscaping. Don’t allow water to spray the house. 
• When ground water is the source of moisture, it may be necessary to create a drain system with a sump, equipped with an automatically controlled pump to remove water from the crawlspace.
• Check the gutters and leaders for breaks and blockages.
• Repair cracks in foundation walls and if necessary coat with a below-grade cement-based waterproofing paint.
• An exterior perimeter drain is another method for preventing water penetration.  The exterior drain collects the water that accumulates next to the foundation and redirects the water away from the foundation.

Leak in my Crawlspace 

If you suspect you have a plumbing leak in your crawlspace, You should determine if the source is the water supply system or a drain. If the leak is in the water supply system - shut off the water to the house immediately.  If it is a drain, stop using the fixture(s) connected to the drain - shut off the water to the fixture(s).  Call your plumber immediately in either case.  Due to health and safety reasons you may need to also call a specialty pumping or remediation service.

Disclaimer